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Leaving the boat on idle, Mardediydiy did something none of the rest of us would dare: he leaned over the side and picked up one of his spears. Four of the fearsomely efficient implements, each tipped with an ironbark head, floated in the river. One by one, our guide lifted them out of the water … Continue reading
Central Australia’s Lake Eyre floods once every 20 years or so. You can view it from above or wallow in its salty shallows, but either way, it’s like nothing else on earth. At Marree, traces of the past converge like desert trails, faint but enduring. A 1950s-era locomotive rusts on its bogies, a shunting yard behind … Continue reading
At Tasmania’s Macquarie Harbour, dark deeds are swallowed by the primeval forest On the map, Macquarie Harbour has the mouth of a crustacean: a barbed spike and a tight overbite. Behind this lies a vast briny belly. One of the largest harbours in the world, the port plunges deep into the Tasmanian wilderness, 260-odd square … Continue reading
WALKING ON WATER The Great Ocean Road twists through 250 kilometres of restless grandeur on Australia’s southern seaboard. In a country that is outrageously blessed with spectacular coastline, this route is among the most awe-inspiring of the lot, stacked with towering crags, honeycombed cliffs, tiny bays and foaming blowholes. There are dense forests teeming with … Continue reading
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